As 2024 comes to a close, everyone at AGS is filled with gratitude for the opportunities, challenges, and milestones that have defined this remarkable year. Reflecting on some of our key achievements only excites us more for what is to come.

AGS Consulting Services expanded significantly across South Asia, providing valuable concept development, garment innovation, technical guidance, marketing, supply chain, and other services to our clients. These efforts have forged strong partnerships across the region’s textile ecosystem and beyond. By empowering our clients to penetrate markets effectively, we have strengthened AGS’s position as a trusted partner across the global value chain.

BIOPURE HS5 (HydroSoft) made its debut with tremendous success. This innovative, coconut oil-based hydrophilic softener has set a high standard for performance with superior moisture wicking for all fiber-types and equivalence to silicone softeners in penetrating softness. Early adopters have reported outstanding results, reaffirming AGS’s commitment to delivering innovative, plant-based technologies that are not just a sustainability story, but provide premium performance and durability at a price that competes with existing silicone softeners.

This year also marked AGS joining the World Castor Sustainability Forum (WCSF). as a founding member. This initiative unites global leaders to promote Good Agricultural Practices (GAP), sustainable supply chains, and collaboration among farmers, industry stakeholders, NGOs, and government entities. By championing sustainable and regenerative farming practices, WCSF empowers farmers to improve yields, reduce environmental impact, and enhance their livelihoods. Our membership reflects AGS’s unwavering dedication to regenerative agriculture, localized sourcing, and community well-being while ensuring our products are sustainable, traceable, transparent, and backed by a resilient supply chain.

AGS conducted research on hemp, cotton, and raw material selection for international material organizations, further supporting the advancement and comprehension of market conditions and dynamics.

Finally, where it all began for AGS, we continue to work closely with customers to create sustainable garment concepts that minimize environmental impact without compromising on quality or performance, delivering tailored solutions that meet the technical and unique needs of each customer.

As we look ahead to 2025, AGS remains committed to providing innovative solutions and unparalleled consulting services that empower our clients and partners to achieve their sustainability goals. We extend our deepest thanks to everyone for their trust and collaboration. Together, we are not just imagining innovative sustainable products—we are making them a reality.

We wish you a joyful holiday season and a prosperous New Year!

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The textile industry is in a period of transformation where businesses face unique challenges and growing demands for sustainability, innovative materials, and efficient operations that require more than conventional solutions. At AGS, our consulting services continue to attract and provide the necessary solutions to these changes that empower companies across the textile value chain to navigate these complexities and seize upon new opportunities.

From raw material suppliers to global brands, every player in the textile value chain plays a critical role in shaping the industry’s future and should not be ignored. At AGS, we work alongside all key stakeholders to address their most pressing needs.

Our team’s extensive and hands-on experience spans material innovation, sourcing, marketing, business development, process optimization, concept creation, and turnkey conversion. Whether it’s helping a manufacturer transition to circular and plant-based technologies or supporting a brand in meeting new market demands, our consulting services ensure practical solutions with measurable impact. We facilitate and keep our clients at the forefront of integrating responsible materials into their supply chains. The result is a seamless balance between sustainability, performance, profitability, and future-proofing their business.

Sustainability is more than a trend—it’s a necessity, but no longer how it was previously perceived. The industry is under increasing pressure to reduce its environmental impact while maintaining product quality and cost-efficiency which we are also experiencing. Our clients feel the pressures already and the emphasis has become focused on advancing circular and plant-based initiatives at break-neck speed, which can quickly become overwhelming.

But sustainability doesn’t stop at materials. We assist our clients in designing closed-loop systems, improving water and energy efficiency in production, and optimizing logistics to reduce emissions. These strategies ensure that businesses not only meet today’s standards but also prepare for a future driven by environmental stewardship.

The textile industry is as global as it gets, and so are the challenges it faces. Our consulting services offer region-specific expertise, enabling clients to adapt to diverse market dynamics. This localized approach ensures that every project is tailored to the unique needs of the region, delivering results that resonate both globally and locally.

Current industry dynamics and challenges are complex but also presents the opportunity for businesses to innovate, grow, and become market leaders. At AGS, our services are designed to turn these opportunities into tangible outcomes, helping businesses navigate the evolving landscape with confidence. By combining our expertise and hands-on approach with new innovations and an emphasis on sustainability, we’re proud to help shape the future of textiles.

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The world continues to preach efficiency and sustainability as critical and paramount for any new innovative technology. AGSurf™ WA011 defines these characteristics as a groundbreaking solution. This next-generation wetting and scouring agent is setting new benchmarks in performance, cost-effectiveness, and environmental responsibility, proving that innovation and sustainability can go hand in hand.

At its core, AGSurf™ WA011 is a cum scouring wetting agent that consists of 34% castor seed oil and is designed to provide optimal wetting and scouring. It is a superspreading technology that significantly reduces the surface tension of water, allowing liquids to spread evenly and penetrate textile surfaces with remarkable efficiency. This ensures even coverage, minimizes pooling, and leaves no residue—making it a superior choice for treating textiles and beyond.

Some of the key benefits of AGSurf™ WA011, includes:

• Enhanced Penetration: Improves the penetration of dyes and finishes deep into textile fibers, ensuring durable results.
• Residue-Free Solution: Eliminates the issue of solution run-off, leaving no traces behind and improving overall product quality.
• Reduced Drying Cycles: Speeds up drying processes, saving energy and reducing production time.
• Low Temperature Performance: What truly sets AGSurf™ WA011 apart is that it excels at exceptionally low temperatures (75 °C) which other wetting and scouring agents cannot function at that temperature.

These properties not only make it a cost-effective solution for manufacturers but also significantly reduces energy consumption and lowers the environmental impact of textile processing.

With its castor-based content, AGSurf™ WA011 aligns with AGS’s commitment to develop sustainable, plant-based technologies. By combining cutting-edge performance with environmental responsibility, this innovative solution empowers industries to achieve their goals while contributing to a greener future.

A wetting and scouring agent is critical for creating functional textiles because it ensures that the fabric is properly prepared to receive dyes, finishes, and other treatments. If the agent is truly exceptional then it permits lower application levels of dyes and chemicals, furthering the sustainability value.

The wetting component reduces the surface tension of water, allowing the agent to spread evenly across and penetrate textile fibers efficiently, while the scouring properties remove impurities like oils, waxes, and debris that can interfere with subsequent processes. This not only improves the absorption and uniformity of treatments but also enhances the overall performance and durability of the finished textile. A high-quality wetting and scouring agent is essential for achieving the desired functionality—such as moisture-wicking, UV protection, or antimicrobial properties—by providing a clean, consistent foundation for these advanced finishes to perform effectively.

Whether you’re in textiles, personal care, or industrial applications, AGSurf™ WA011 is the wetting and scouring agent you need to streamline your processes, enhance product quality, and reduce your environmental footprint.

Contact us to discover the future of wetting and scouring—today.

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We are excited to announce our membership in the Textile Exchange, a global organization dedicated to advancing sustainable practices within the textile industry. This step underscores our dedication to driving innovation and responsibility in textile production and supply chains. As a Textile Exchange member, AGS is poised to collaborate with like-minded industry players and further our mission to promote responsible and sustainable textile solutions.

The Textile Exchange is recognized globally for its efforts in fostering sustainable materials, circular business models, and responsible sourcing. It serves as a catalyst for industry-wide change, helping companies align with sustainable production goals and transform operations. Joining the Textile Exchange allows us to amplify our commitment to reducing the environmental impact of textiles while offering a platform to engage with others striving toward the same goals.

AGS is no stranger to sustainability, from the development of our BIOPURE plant-based technologies to our long-standing innovation partnerships and consulting services, we’ve been actively driving sustainable innovation for over seven years. Our involvement with the Textile Exchange aligns us with global initiatives and allows us to continue our active role in helping shape the future of textiles.

At AGS, our impact spans far beyond plant-based chemical innovations. In addition to our proprietary technologies like BIOPURE HS5 and BIOPURE MM1, we provide consulting and direct, on-the-ground, services to the entire textile value chain—from raw material sourcing, fiber development, and chemical solutions to spinning, fabric production, and garment manufacturing. We also continue to provide these services to brand and retailer partners to help integrate innovative concepts, ensuring that sustainability is embedded in their supply chain while minimizing costs through every stage of production.

Whether it is developing sustainable material innovations or offering business development and logistical support, our services are designed to help clients optimize their operations and meet ever-evolving consumer and regulatory demands for sustainability. AGS Consulting provides essential guidance, expertise, and on-the-ground services that allows our clients to achieve success in their sustainable product journey.

Our membership in the Textile Exchange marks a pivotal and meaningful moment that reaffirms our commitment to a more sustainable future. With our dual focus on plant-based chemical solutions and comprehensive consulting services, AGS is uniquely positioned to offer holistic support to the textile industry. We look forward to collaborating with other Textile Exchange members to drive impactful change that fosters sustainable innovation. We remain dedicated in pushing the boundaries of innovation to create lasting, positive impact across the entire textile value chain.

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We are thrilled to announce an exciting and significant update to BIOPURE HS5, our coconut oil-based hydrophilic softener. This iterative technology improvement reflects our ongoing commitment to innovation, sustainability, and premium performance textile solutions. BIOPURE HS5 has been celebrated for its natural origin and exceptional softness, and now it delivers even more impressive results. We are proud to offer this enhanced version that brings new possibilities for mills and brands that are looking to meet the demands of today’s consumer.

One of the most exciting improvements in this update is the enhanced softness. With the new version of BIOPURE HS5, fabric softness has reached a level comparable to traditional silicone-based softeners, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a future-proof solution without sacrificing luxurious feel. This improvement aligns perfectly with the growing demand for sustainable, yet top-performing, textile solutions that meet both environmental goals and consumer expectations without breaking the bank.

In addition to softness, BIOPURE HS5 now offers improved whiteness and moisture absorbency across all fiber-types. Whether applied to cellulosic or synthetic fibers, our softener helps textiles feel breathable and dry. The moisture wicking capabilities have also been improved, particularly for polyester-rich fabrics.

Compatibility with optical brightening agents (OBAs) remains another important feature of BIOPURE HS5. Because plant-based softeners are typically slightly cationic, we advise conducting lab evaluations to validate compatibility and seamless integration into your existing treatment formulations to deliver consistent and optimal results. Whether working with delicate whites or vibrant colors, mills can confidently rely on BIOPURE HS5.

At AGS, we are dedicated to providing sustainable, innovative, top-performing solutions that are cost-effective and beat the market. The latest version of BIOPURE HS5 offers all of its enhanced benefits at the same price, ensuring it remains accessible to our valued partners. We encourage you to explore the new possibilities this updated softener brings and to share it with mills and brands seeking innovative, eco-conscious solutions. BIOPURE HS5 is a testament to AGS’s leadership in shaping the future of textile finishes.

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Our approach to sourcing coconut oil is an additional example of how we prioritize local and sustainable supply chains. By working with local suppliers, similar to our castor initiative, we support regional and local economies while ensuring that our products maintain the highest levels of quality and performance. The coconut oil used in our BIOPURE HS5 softener is a testament to this commitment. We have been impressed with the exceptional softness and wicking performance of this plant-based technology, which rivals that of traditional silicone softeners. However, unlike silicones, our softener also imparts a silky smooth surface to textiles, offering an added value that the synthetic alternatives cannot provide.

Our ever-growing involvement in our supply chain reflects our unwavering commitment to sustainability, transparency, and innovation. By becoming intimately involved, we understand and care about every step of the process—from farm to finished product—allowing us to offer our customers a level of quality and responsibility that is unparalleled in the industry. As we continue to push the boundaries of plant-based chemistry, we remain dedicated to the principles that have always guided us: creating products that are not only effective, efficient, and price-friendly but minimize the impact of textiles on the world.

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When we first began developing BIOPURE MM1, we did not plan to create a portfolio of plant-based technologies. We did not expect to provide solutions that would be immediately competing so closely with synthetic chemicals in performance, durability, ease-of-use, and price. We listened to various brands and manufacturers as they would outline their areas of struggle for innovative materials and chemicals. This eventually led to creating our BIOPURE brand and a solution that features BIOPURE HS5 and BIOPURE MM1. This innovative package elevates textile performance while aligning with growing demand for regenerative, renewable, and traceable solutions.

BIOPURE HS5, our coconut oil-based hydrophilic softener, offers exceptional penetrating softness, optimal surface smoothness, and superior moisture-wicking capabilities. Complementing this is BIOPURE MM1, an advanced wicking, cooling, and drying finish derived from castor seed oil. Both technologies boast 30-wash durability, ensuring long-lasting effectiveness and sustainability.

The flash-wicking performance of this package is unparalleled, providing rapid moisture management that keeps textiles feeling dry and comfortable even in the most demanding conditions. The combination of these two technologies offers a synergistic effect that not only enhances the tactile properties of the fabric but also significantly improves its functional attributes.

One of the most compelling aspects of the BIOPURE package is its sustainability. In fact, BIOPURE MM1 is carbon negative. Both HS5 and MM1 are crafted from renewable resources—coconut oil and castor seed oil—highlighting our dedication to reducing the environmental footprint of textile production. These technologies are not just green in their composition but are also backed by rigorous transparency along with sustainability certifications. BIOPURE HS5 and MM1 are GOTS V7.0, ZDHC Level 3, and OEKO-TEX® EcoPassport certified. Additionally, they received the SEAL Sustainable Innovation Award. At AGS, we provide our customers with the assurance of responsible manufacturing processes and raw material sourcing.

Ease of application is another standout feature of the BIOPURE HS5 + MM1 package. These solutions go hand-in-hand and are designed for seamless integration into traditional textile processes such as padding and exhaust, ensuring that manufacturers can adopt them without the need for modifications to their existing setups. We understand that this ease of use is critical and enables textile manufacturers to quickly and easily transition to our plant-based options without incurring additional costs, operational disruptions, or pricing conflicts.

Cost-effective innovation is at the core of our development strategy at AGS. We understand that for sustainable technologies to gain widespread acceptance, they must be competitively priced. All of our solutions at AGS are designed with this as one of the core principles. The BIOPURE HS5 + MM1 package not only meets but often surpasses the performance of synthetic counterparts, all while being available at a cost-efficient and comparative price point. This makes it an attractive option for brands looking to enhance their sustainability credentials without compromising on performance or profitability.

The BIOPURE plant-based package represents the future of textile finishing. By combining exceptional performance with unparalleled sustainability, we continue to push boundaries in developing innovative solutions that meet the evolving needs of consumers and the textile industry. As more brands and manufacturers adopt plant-based technologies, we move closer to a more sustainable and responsible future.

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We are thrilled to announce that AGS Group has become a member of the World Castor Sustainability Forum (WCSF). This significant step aligns with our commitment to provide a sustainability and transparency to our customers.

Championing Sustainability
The WCSF is a global initiative dedicated to promoting the sustainable cultivation and utilization of castor seeds. As a founding member, AGS Group continues to lead by example to further drive industry-wide changes that will ensure a more sustainable future across industries and our planet. Our managing director, Stefan Krueger, stated the following about this special and significant event, “Joining WCSF represents more than transparency for our technologies, it creates dialogue and is an open invitation for others to gain a greater desire to pursue environmental stewardship, responsible sourcing, and to support the communities and regions that have given us so much. Because sustainability is about your actions — today, tomorrow, and onwards — it is far more than just nice words and marketing claims.”

The Importance of Castor
Castor oil, derived from castor seeds, is a vital component in many of our technologies, including BIOPURE MM1. Our innovative textile pre-treatments and finishing agents rely on the unique properties of castor oil to deliver superior performance while delivering the most sustainable solution on the market, today. By supporting regenerative castor farming, we can ensure a reliable supply of this critical ingredient while minimizing environmental impact and protecting a region that fights against the challenges of climate change.

The castor plant is truly unique, in that it require so little in input, to provide so much in output. The castor plant is resilient in fighting and enduring climate change. It is ideal for marginal lands in arid and semi-arid climates. The hearty root system prevents soil erosion that otherwise can easily occur. It does not displace food crops, is water efficient, drought resistant, tolerant of water salinity and soil acidity.

The castor seed consists of 45–55% oil. This essential oil produced from the castor offers unequalled versatility and capability. The oil is uniquely cost effective, highly productive, and resource efficient. It is a crucial bio-based raw material. The natural capabilities of the castor oil to provide durable performance combined with the low application requirements, pushes the level of sustainability even further.

Because sustainability is about your actions — today, tomorrow, and onwards — it is far more than just nice words and marketing claims.

A Collaborative Effort
Joining the WCSF allows us to work together with other industry leaders, researchers, and policymakers to support the development and implementation of regenerative agriculture practices for castor cultivation. This collaborative effort aims to enhance the livelihoods of farmers, provide education, improve the environmental footprint of castor farming, and promote the overall sustainability of the castor oil supply chain.

Our Commitment
At AGS Group, sustainability is more than a buzzword—it’s a core value that drives our innovation and operations. Becoming a founding member of the WCSF underscores our commitment to integrating sustainable practices into every aspect of our business. We believe that by working together with other stakeholders, we can create a positive impact on the environment and the communities involved in castor cultivation.

Looking Ahead
As we embark on this exciting journey with the WCSF, we look forward to sharing our progress and insights with you. Together, we can make a difference and set a newer and higher standard for the sustainability of plant-based chemicals and for the textile industry as whole.

Stay tuned for additional updates on our other initiatives and our continued efforts in advancing and supporting the responsible use of sustainable castor alongside the other members of the WCSF.

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CIRCULOSE® remains standing at the forefront of the textile and fashion industry’s push toward sustainability, innovation, and circularity. Originally developed by Renewcell AB, this groundbreaking cellulosic upcycling process transforms cellulosic-rich (90%+ cotton) pre and post-consumer textile waste into the high-quality CIRCULOSE® pulp. This pulp is then used to produce man-made cellulosic fibers, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional cotton and Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers (MMCF).

The Unique Process
What sets CIRCULOSE® apart is its ability to produce pulp entirely from textile waste using a closed-loop, chemical recycling process. This patented method ensures that the environmental footprint of the textile industry is significantly reduced, promoting a shift toward a low-carbon economy. The process itself is revolutionary, providing a scalable solution to the industry’s waste problem and making circular fashion a tangible reality.

A New Chapter: The Altor Acquisition
In February 2024, Renewcell faced financial difficulties and filed for bankruptcy. However, the innovative spirit behind CIRCULOSE® was far from extinguished. During the bankruptcy proceedings, Altor, a renowned investment firm, acquired Renewcell’s assets. In a strategic move, Altor rebranded the company to align with its flagship product, renaming it Circulose.

With this acquisition, Circulose not only retained its pioneering technology but also underwent leadership and management changes. These changes were aimed at enhancing the company’s agility and ensuring that each role within Circulose was filled with the requisite skills and capabilities. This revitalized leadership is now driving the company toward new heights, making CIRCULOSE® pulp more market-competitive than ever before.

CIRCULOSE® is more than just a material; it represents a paradigm shift in how we approach textile production and waste management.

Market Impact and Future Prospects
The excitement surrounding CIRCULOSE® is palpable. More and more products incorporating CIRCULOSE® are beginning to arrive on store shelves, not just as a marketing promise but as a fundamental component of the fabric composition and a testament to the brands and retailers that are adopting CIRCULOSE®. It is a testament to their desire and push to transition towards sustainable solutions and having a lower impact on the environment. This tangible progress also marks a significant milestone in Circulose’s journey, showcasing a remarkable recovery and transformation in a relatively short period.

AGS Services Resume
At AGS, we share in the overwhelming enthusiasm as we are pleased to announce that AGS India’s Services Division is once again providing on-the-ground services to Circulose for their CIRCULOSE® pulp in both India and Sri Lanka. Our services are tailored to supporting Circulose’s mission to advance sustainable practices and promote circularity within the textile industry.

CIRCULOSE® is more than just a material; it represents a paradigm shift in how we approach textile production and waste management. With its innovative recycling process and renewed strategic direction under Altor’s ownership, CIRCULOSE® is poised to lead the charge in making the fashion industry more sustainable. At AGS, we are proud to be part of this journey, contributing to a greener, more circular future for textiles and protecting our planet for future generations to enjoy.

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In recent years, the textile industry has made significant strides in developing more environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional durable water repellent (DWR) treatments. One of the most promising innovations is PFAS-Free (c-0) DWR technology, which provides water repellency without the use of harmful per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). However, while these technologies offers clear environmental benefits, they also faces several challenges in delivering optimal performance.

This article is not a call to return to old DWR technologies that are harmful to humans and the environment, but to show the flaws of the textile chemical industry and the need to pivot in the current direction of development.

Durability Concerns
One of the primary struggles with PFAS-free DWR treatments is durability. Compared to their fluorocarbon-based counterparts, PFAS-free DWRs do not penetrate, bind, and spread out deep within the fiber. When testing for performance, Traditional DWRs would excel with long-lasting test results achieving 100 in water and oil repellency. But current PFAS-Free DWRs struggle to achieve a 90/100 for initial performance (no washes) and degrades rapidly from there. This is a serious problem as these technologies are expensive but have sub-par initial performance and then lose their effectiveness with a few washes and through normal wear and tear. This reduced durability can be a significant drawback for consumers that require long-lasting water repellency not water resistance.

Water Repellency Application Rate Issues
PFAS-Free DWR treatments to achieve ‘acceptable’ results typically require such high application rates that they push the limit of what fabric can handle. Some of these effects are: caking (solid lumps or agglomerates in a chemical solution or dispersion) along with fabric rigidity and a rough handle.

Performance Concerns and Tradeoffs
While they can handle light rain and moisture, they often struggle to repel water effectively during heavy rain or prolonged exposure to moisture. This limitation can affect the performance of outdoor gear and apparel in challenging weather conditions. Achieving a balance between water repellency, breathability, and fabric feel is particularly challenging with PFAS-free DWR treatments. Optimal performance in one area might result in compromises in another, making it difficult to deliver a product that meets all consumer needs effectively.

Fluorocarbon-based DWR treatments are known for their excellent resistance to oils and stains, providing comprehensive protection for fabrics. In contrast, PFAS-free DWR treatments typically perform poorly in this regard. This can be a significant disadvantage for consumers who need their textiles to resist not just water but also oils and other stains. These are especially big issues for workwear.

While PFAS-free DWRs are more environmentally friendly, they are still subject to ongoing scrutiny and regulation…

Environmental Condition Performance
The performance of PFAS-Free DWR can be less consistent in extreme environmental conditions, such as very cold or hot weather. This variability can limit the applicability of PFAS-free DWR-treated fabrics in certain environments or for specific outdoor activities, where reliable performance is crucial.

Chemical Stability
Non-fluorinated DWRs can lack chemical stability. This leads to inconsistent performance per chemical batch that then affects everything from chemical reliability to consumer trust.

Compatibility with Different Fabrics
Not all fabrics bonds well to PFAS-free DWR treatments. Some materials might not achieve the desired level of repellency or could experience changes in texture or appearance. Ensuring compatibility with a wide range of textiles is an ongoing challenge for manufacturers.

Environmental Regulations and Market Acceptance
While PFAS-free DWRs are more environmentally friendly, they are still subject to ongoing scrutiny and regulation, which can impact their market acceptance and use. Ensuring compliance with environmental regulations while meeting consumer expectations is a delicate balance that manufacturers must navigate.

Addressing these challenges requires continuous innovation and improvement in alternative water and oil repellency technologies. By continuing to pursue new solutions to enhance the durability, water repellency, oil and stain resistance, and overall performance, the textile industry can return to the expected standard. This effort is crucial to creating sustainable, high-performance textiles that meet the demands of both consumers and the environment.

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